Last leg and home

Day 25 in fact day 26 Arbroath to Eyemouth

Early morning purchase of famed "Arbroath Smokies" hot smoked haddock and "smokie fish cakes"

Only enough water to exit harbour at 12.30 so visited lighthouse museum celebrating Bell Rock lighthouse construction between 1807-1811, extraordinary feat on a tidal reef in the Forth of Firth only exposed at low water. Special locking stones designed and used.

Exiting into strongest wind so far, force 5 gusting 6,first reef in and only half foresail out, scooting along in moderate to rough sea. We had decided to sail due south via Isle of May rather than a direct route taking us deeper into the Firth before turning east to round St Abbs 

Head. Second reef necessary.  A long day out in heavy sea tossed about yet always safe in trusty Swallow.

Somewhat scary approach to Eyemouth in an west flowing sea with waves making the approach in the crowded bay difficult because of the extent of agitation. Once in through the canyon all calm, safe and a sense of deep relief. Resident seals begging.

Let's hope an easier day tomorrow our last day aboard.

The last day Saturday 28 June

Interesting dredging activity in Eyemouth harbour making for some good pics

Through the canyon one last time, with some trepidation on a "strong winds are expected later" warning. We are all keen now to reach home and being in familiar waters feel able to face some more uncomfortable seas.

As it transpired strong winds blew for 30 minutes allowing a comfortable journey via Inner Farnes on the tide, with wonderful views of Holy Island, the unfolding of Northumberland and it's famed castles Bamburgh and Dunstanburgh, Coquet lighthouse to Blyth and Swallow's usual berth.

The end of an extraordinary journey.  

Total journey = 867.52nm (Lands End to John O'Groats is only 603 miles)

Total miles by crew 1 = 389.18nm

Total miles by crew 2 = 478.34nm

 

Total hours at sea = 194hrs

Total hours at sea by crew 1 = 91hrs 40mins

Total hours at sea by crew 2 = 102hrs 20mins

 

Wonderful places visited, great bonhomie without exception. 

3 cooped up in a small space, facing considerable physical hardship at times testing us close to our limits of endurance. A real sense of accomplishment.

Made possible by:

mutual cooperation and respect.

An unusual weather window which allowed sailing every day we chose

Lastly the amazing technology that is available today, modern chart plotter allowing  accurate navigation even in heavy mist. 

As well on the IPad, continuous updating of our position in great detail, measurement of distance travelled and to be travelled, dynamic tidal stream maps allowing hour by hour examination of likely stream patterns and access to a variety of weather reports.

Thanks to our patient spouses Linda, Lesley, Jenny, Carolyn and Gay

Thank you too all who have shared our journey.

And finally, trusty safe Swallow 

An easy day at last

Day  24 

L

Fitful sleep tied up against the harbour wall, a strange balance of long warps that allow tidal movements of more than 4 meters. 

Lovely dinner of very fresh fish and chips.

Early start to ensure timed entry to Arbroath. 

Another day hugging the coastline, more castles, fishing villages, guano stained cliffs, wheeling teaming birds. Bob Dylan and Sugarman

Steering around the frightening multitude of lobster pots to Arbroath (where we snagged a lobster pot last year)

Place to buy the famed "smokies" 

2 further days, the Moray Firth and Stonehaven again

Day 22 Crossing the Moray Firth, a long days night

Previously I have crossed the Firth (the largest stretch of open UK water) in 2 separate day's sailing, traveling south first to Whitehills then east to Peterhead negotiating Rattray Head a dangerous headland with shallow reefs causing turbulence in the strong tidal stream  particularly when the tide is against the winds. By plotting a course from Wick to Peterhead, southeast one can save 20 miles and approach Peterhead with enough offing not to be exposed to the turbulence of Rattray Head.

We agreed this strategy knowing this would be a strenuous test of endurance. Predicted weather conditions were good with excellent visibility and a force 3 to 4 north east wind, sea state slight to moderate. We had to time our arrival at Rattray Head so as not to arrive before 9,30 pm.

And so it was, a long day in the sea and wind; watching the cliffs of Wick slowly diminish hour upon hour, visible for 30 miles, the huge Highland peaks behind them seemingly never fading, still discernible at 50 miles as the headland ahead agonisingly changed from a smudge to a growing land mass. In such a space with visibility for near on 70 miles ones progress is snail like and painful, seemingly not to change by the minute and barely by the hour.

A journey of 82 miles taking 141/2 hours requires a special endurance, so arriving at 0145 we were elated, cold and exhausted, delayed briefly for a supply ship to enter the harbour ahead of us

Day 23

After a dead like sleep and hot shower, revived we exited the bustling port filled with strange gigantic craft servicing the off shore oil and gas industry. Turning south now hugging the rugged coastline of Aberdeenshire and Angus, easy navigation minding the many lobster pots watching the slowly changing sequence of villages, ruined castles, small harbours and cliffs with speeding east coast rail and road above the mirror like sea.

So to Stonehaven again that delightful harbour and town

Inching our way home.

 

Day 21 turning for home and the Pentland Firth

For the first time in 3 weeks we have pointed the bow south wards.

From Stromness taking the route through the many islands that make up Scapa Flow.

This is the site of many sea battles, with many wrecks and fortification.

During the First World War the German navy scuppered their fleet in Scapa Flow.

In the Second World War Churchill sunk old ships to block off the small channels into this landlocked sea to prevent U-boats taking a short cut to the North Atlantic 

The Orkneys are separated from mainland Scotland by the Pentland Firth, a notoriously dangerous stretch of water where the tidal stream can reach 9 knots at springs. The sailing directions all .provide very cautious advice with regard to crossing this  8 mile stretch of water, where over falls, whirlpools and races can cause difficulty especially in high seas and adverse winds.

We prepared in great detail for the day consulting with other sailors and harbour masters. Our passage was timed perfectly and effortless, then with the stream behind us we sped towards Wick at times at more than 8 knots 

A spiritual day

Day 20 

On the bus again, now to the Neolithic centre of the Orkneys;  

Maeshowe, Ring of Brodgar and the Standing Stones of Steness. 

The words evoke the misty past of one of the most extraordinary, evocative and without doubt spiritual place I have ever experienced.

Set in a massive basin, ringed by hills on all sides, the Neolithic people whose homes we visited yesterday, motivated by a spiritual vision, constructed with stone tools, before even the Bronze Age a massive series of complex meticulously engineered burial mounds and stone circles that stand today.

No signs of slave labour or of oppression, rather a spirit of cooperation and celebration straddling many years; truly civilised behaviour. Without the wheel they transported and erected huge slabs of stone reflecting the geological character of the many parts of these islands. 

Such was their skill that they were able to orientate the entrance of Maeshowe to allow the winter solstice sun to be focused on the principal bridal chamber.

Truly moved, I am in awe.

So too have been successive peoples, bronze age burial mounds constructed 500 years later than the original Neolithic structures surround the Ring of Brodgar, Crusaders and Norseman have carved cryptic runes on the stone faces inside Maeshowe.

This is a wonder worth struggling to find

Exploring Orkney

Day 19

Slow recovering day yesterday, washing drying and cleaning Swallow

Looking around Stromness, a working port with the old Center still largely intact 

Narrow steep streets leading directly onto the sea with many houses having their own slipways

Then today exploring the ledgendry antiquities set in an amazing landscape 

Skara Brae uncovered in a storm in 1850, the best preserved Neolithic settlement in Europe; more than 5000 years old; before the pyramids were built sophisticated master craftsman were living and working these fertile shores.

Brough of Birsay, Pictish and Norse homestead occupied between 600 AD and 1200.

These were the motivation for the visit and have rewarded the effort of getting here

Onwards

Day16  mists and the Minch

Dingy packed away and out of Badachro bay, misty with poor visibility again, a whisper of wind so another day of motoring.

A moment of sunshine as we drew level with Rubha Reidh lighthouse , lovely views across the northern point of Skye to Uist and South Harris which was 30 miles away.

Then more fog obscuring the famed Summer Isles, forcing us to safer water further west 

Some clearing in the afternoon as we approached Kinlochbervie, now be beginning to feel the Atlantic swell sweeping past the northern point of Harris. Beginning to feel like the end of the world. Enough visibility to approach through the Whale islands into a narrow desolate but safe passage to this tiny remote harbour. 

Just a hint of the massive that is Cape Wrath on our bow as we turned in

Minimal facilities no mobile phone reception, no FM reception, a desolate feel to this tiny fishing community. The only bread was frozen. No WiFi

Some discussions with the community of waiting sailors regarding our intended plans with good advice from a visiting lone Shetland yachtsman. Transient gale warning on Orkney.

Day 17  The North Atlantic, rounding Cape Wrath and Stromness bay

We slept fitfully, the magnitude of our undertaking on everyone's mind;

2 major tidal gates, rounding the feared Cape and entering an unseen harbour at night with a tidal stream of 8 knots, 75 miles of gruelling exposure.

The early weather report was more favourable, our calculations checked and rechecked, our route discussed, our resolve firm and agreed.

Coming out of Kinlochbervie bay we knew we would face wind over tide so as to bring us to Cape Wrath in time for the east flowing stream. We entered a confused agitated sea off the point but could see beyond to calmer waters.

Then with wind on the beam and with the recommended 5 mile offing we approached the legendary cliffs, watching their dreadful grandeur. As before with appropriate preparation and perfect timing there was no threat, only wonder as the whole of the Northern Scottish coastline opened to our starboard, visible for 30 to 40 miles. The stream lifted our boat speed so that at times we were doing 7.5 knots over the ground

On and on as Cape Wrath gradually faded into the distance, big Atlantic rollers on the beam, Swallow happy even though we remained apprehensive as gradually in the early evening Hoy and Stromness cliffs began to emerge from the eastern cloud and we inched closer timing our approach for 11.27, slack water and the in going west flowing tide which would allow us out of what had by then developed into a rough sea.

Through the gloom steered by our chart plotter and the winking leading lights we approached the haven of calm water and less wind. Safe we collapsed into an exhausted and deeply satisfied sleep

We had sailed for 151/2 hours covering 74 miles to arrive at the best Neolithic site in Western Europe 

Onwards

Day 15 Southern Minch

Lovely walk around Plockton first thing to visit old haunts, a unique space around Loch Caron

Then off again up along the Inner Sound, the islands of Scalpay, Raasay and Rona  lying between us and Skye, and as we progressed distant views past Skye of to the outer Hebredes and South Uist. 

Where ever one looked a magical panorama for tens of miles, remote places, dominated by towering misty mountains.

On to Lock Gairlock and the famous mooring in the sheltered bay of Badachro.

Dingy to the slip to pay our dues.

Supper of red Thai curry as the fog deepened 

Day16  mists and the Minch

Dingy packed away and out of Badachro bay, misty with poor visibility again, a whisper of wind so another day of motoring.

A moment of sunshine as we drew level with Rubha Reidh lighthouse , lovely views across the northern point of Skye to Uist and South Harris which was 30 miles away. At times I feel I'm looking at the end of the earth

Then more fog obscuring the famed Summer Isles and forcing us to safer water further west.

Now in Loch Inver, remote beautiful bay guarded by small islands and narrow channels, and beyond Stornaway and the end of the Hebredian chain. The open Atlantic beckons, if the high holds we will try to round Cape Wrath and get to the Orkneys.

Wild Scotland

Day 14 exploring wild Scotland 

Good visibility today, wonderful vistas as we left Malliag of the small islands and Skye with the Cullens astride, up the Sound of Sleat. 

The crux of the day was to traverse Kyle Rhea a narrow channel connecting the Sound of Sleat to Loch Alsh. At springs the tide achieves 8 knots so timing is critical so as not to find oneself carried backwards. 

I had dreamed for some months of this challenge but as it transpired we entered the Kyle at slack water and within a few minutes had 2 knots of tide behind us.

Then past Kyle of Loch Alsh past a towering French cruise ship, under the new Skye Bridge.

On to Plockton, ancestral home of the Hamilton's, a place I last visited in my early years in the UK.

Sitting on a swinging mooring 360 degree changing panorama of the most extraordinary vistas.

A wonderful complex day giving all a sense of accomplishment and confidence for the journey to come 

End of first leg

Day 12

On the move again after a full days rest at Tobemory. First rest day after 10 days sailing

Enough time for 3 showers and a wonderful dinner at award winning Cafe Fish.

Grey drizzle and light airs as we left, enough wind to sail close hauled listening to the gurgle Swallow makes when running freely. Mull Lighthouse on the beam as we headed to a

Ardnamurchan point, open to the Atlantic and prone as a headland to be rough. Not today as visibility reduced, the famous lighthouse disappeared and we were left making headway on course via our chart plotter (a tool we have come increasingly to rely upon)

We were hoping to see the legendary vista of the islands of Muck and Egg as we progressed in the channel between the small islands and the mainland but they remained invisible in the mist.

So to Mallaig, looming out of the mist as we were flanked by fishing boats returning to port.

Not at all pretty like Tobemory, gritty working port biggest fishing fleet I have ever seen.

Moored we are backing onto to hissing thrumming fishing boats, I suspect this will go on all night.

So the first leg is over Mike and Alan will drive home on Sunday after David and Mick bring the car up, and on into the wilder parts we will go.

We have achieved our intended objective living together for 12 days on a 29 ft yacht, not a cross word, lots of anecdote and laughter, a unique and special time we won't forget.

We have covered 389 miles taking 92 hrs sailing, we have called into 9 ports, anchored twice and moored onto a buoy in Cromarty

Difficult to predict when next I will find broadband

Tomorrow night hopefully in Plockton