Onwards

Day16  mists and the Minch

Dingy packed away and out of Badachro bay, misty with poor visibility again, a whisper of wind so another day of motoring.

A moment of sunshine as we drew level with Rubha Reidh lighthouse , lovely views across the northern point of Skye to Uist and South Harris which was 30 miles away.

Then more fog obscuring the famed Summer Isles, forcing us to safer water further west 

Some clearing in the afternoon as we approached Kinlochbervie, now be beginning to feel the Atlantic swell sweeping past the northern point of Harris. Beginning to feel like the end of the world. Enough visibility to approach through the Whale islands into a narrow desolate but safe passage to this tiny remote harbour. 

Just a hint of the massive that is Cape Wrath on our bow as we turned in

Minimal facilities no mobile phone reception, no FM reception, a desolate feel to this tiny fishing community. The only bread was frozen. No WiFi

Some discussions with the community of waiting sailors regarding our intended plans with good advice from a visiting lone Shetland yachtsman. Transient gale warning on Orkney.

Day 17  The North Atlantic, rounding Cape Wrath and Stromness bay

We slept fitfully, the magnitude of our undertaking on everyone's mind;

2 major tidal gates, rounding the feared Cape and entering an unseen harbour at night with a tidal stream of 8 knots, 75 miles of gruelling exposure.

The early weather report was more favourable, our calculations checked and rechecked, our route discussed, our resolve firm and agreed.

Coming out of Kinlochbervie bay we knew we would face wind over tide so as to bring us to Cape Wrath in time for the east flowing stream. We entered a confused agitated sea off the point but could see beyond to calmer waters.

Then with wind on the beam and with the recommended 5 mile offing we approached the legendary cliffs, watching their dreadful grandeur. As before with appropriate preparation and perfect timing there was no threat, only wonder as the whole of the Northern Scottish coastline opened to our starboard, visible for 30 to 40 miles. The stream lifted our boat speed so that at times we were doing 7.5 knots over the ground

On and on as Cape Wrath gradually faded into the distance, big Atlantic rollers on the beam, Swallow happy even though we remained apprehensive as gradually in the early evening Hoy and Stromness cliffs began to emerge from the eastern cloud and we inched closer timing our approach for 11.27, slack water and the in going west flowing tide which would allow us out of what had by then developed into a rough sea.

Through the gloom steered by our chart plotter and the winking leading lights we approached the haven of calm water and less wind. Safe we collapsed into an exhausted and deeply satisfied sleep

We had sailed for 151/2 hours covering 74 miles to arrive at the best Neolithic site in Western Europe